We are your one stop Vernon chimney shop!
- We eliminate the guesswork. And provide our customers cutting edge Vernon chimney repair technology.
- We are clean. And ensure our footwear never touches your floors. Our industrial vacuums collect the dust before it gets into your home while our trained technician sweeps and inspects the chimney flue.
- You are safe! We document every job with before and after photos, and the lead technician on the job is always certified. We also test for excess levels of carbon monoxide at no additional cost to you. Our Vernon company is about making your home safe.
We begin with a Vernon chimney inspection—which is one of the most important chimney services we offer, and one of the most misunderstood. The inspection determines the status of your chimney. We have created a page where specifics are listed. We are CSIA certified.
Why Should I Sweep My Chimney?
A chimney is probably one of the most ignored and poorly maintained structures on a home mainly because of lack of access and most people have a fear of heights.
Things to watch for if your chimney is having problems is crumbling mortar joints, cracked or broken brick, a cracked or missing crown on top of the chimney, a leaning chimney(which is really bad) and water damage inside your home around the chimney. You should contact a chimney repair or mason contractor to fix your chimney problems.
But if you are up to the challenge here is what you will need to do, first depending on how bad it is most chimney problems can be fixed with a little chimney tuckpointing. You will first need a good grinder, not a cheap $20 on either, buy a dewalt or hitatchi for about $120.00 then you will also need a good diamond 4 inch wheel to go on it, they will run you about $65.00.
Start by grinding out every mortar joint as deep as you can get the blade in, be sure to wear safety glasses and a mask if not you will regret it later. After all the joints have been ground out take your brush and clean out all the joints thoroughly. Now you will need to mix your mortar, after it is mixed it is easiest to use a grout bag to fill the joints, which resembles a large cake decorating bag if you dont know what one is. Be sure you mix is fluid enough to flow through bag but not too wet where it has no body or else you will have a huge mess on your hands. Depending on temperature you have to check your joints frequently to see if they are ready to be struck with a striking iron or a rake.
After you have struck or raked your joints brush them down to remove loose mortar and clean up the chimney. Next check the concrete cap, if it is cracked then it should be replaced and a new one should be poured in its place that is alteast 4 inches thick. After that task is completed check the chimney flashing and be sure it is installed correctly and is hole and crack free or it may need to be caulked up or replaced. Then clean up your roof with a broom or hose but if using water try not to spray your chimney till its dry.
That's pretty much how a brick tuckpointing job is done for an existing chimney, if you are unsure of any of the above task you really should have a mason contractor do the work for you.
There are two common rebuilds of a chimney: partial and full. Partial chimney rebuilds are mostly done above the roof or the top few courses of a chimney, which generally also requires a new crown. Full chimney rebuilds consist of completely rebuilding the fireplace and chimney. This service consists of demolishing the outer layer of brick on a chimney system and adding a new crown. With a full rebuild, the firebox, smoke chamber, and hearth do not typically have to be replaced. Chimney rebuilds are required when the chimney is leaning, has extensive masonry damage,or vertical cracking has occurred.
What Causes Chimneys to Develop Cracks?
When you get lots of moisture in a chimney, the water's solvent properties go to work on the water, concrete and bricks, slowing removing one particle at a time until you have fissures, and eventually, cracks, especially if you don't have a flue liner or other flue protection. If you're getting heavy use out of a chimney, you'll speed up the deterioration process.
You have a high-energy efficiency furnace. Today's high-efficiency furnaces save you money, but they also put a lot more moisture in the flue air than yesterday's lower-efficiency ones. All that moisture, again, increases the wear-and-tear on your chimney and flue.
You have an oil or gas furnace. In these cases, the problem is acid. Acidic vapors from burning gas and oil build up a residue and that eats away at your chimney from the inside out. This can cause cracks in the clay lining, especially, and leave you with potentially expensive repairs.